Monthly Archives: October 2015

Park Blanket Revamp in Four Corners Fabric

Welcome to visitors from the Simple Simon & Co. Four Corners fabric tour! I had a blast sewing with the new collection designed by my friends Liz and Liz for Riley Blake Designs.

For my project, I started with a fat quarter bundle of Four Corners fabric, plus solid white fabric and black Essex Linen from my stash.

"Park Blanket" Pattern Revamp in Four Corners Fabric | Craft Buds
The pattern is called “The Park Blanket” and it’s from my new book On the Go Bags: 15 Handmade Purses, Totes, and Organizers that I co-wrote with Janelle MacKay (Stash Books, Dec. ’15). Janelle designed this clever blanket that folds into a tote with a flap and carrying strap, which is perfect for the on-the-go lifestyle!

The original is sewn with Cuddle fabric and laminated cotton (pictured left), and I’ve always wondered how it would look as an actual quilt. While sewing the flap, I chose a few of my favorite prints and pieced small flying geese up the center, adding straight-line quilting up the sides.

"Park Blanket" Pattern Revamp in Four Corners Fabric | Craft Buds

I improv pieced some strips of various widths for a colorful border. My favorite part of this quilt, aside from the awesome colors and prints in this fabric, is the random white strips that peek through the border. The quilt finishes at about 51″ square, and I backed and bound it in black Essex linen.

"Park Blanket" Pattern Revamp in Four Corners Fabric | Craft Buds

I went into this quilt with a totally different plan. I wanted flying geese… everywhere! I started by sewing lots of really large flying geese (10″ x 5″ finished), which left me with some bonus half-square triangles.  I ended up moving away from the flying geese all together, because I really liked what was going on with this center medallion.

"Park Blanket" Pattern Revamp in Four Corners Fabric | Craft Buds

Picnics, outdoor concerts, baseball games… I can picture lots of future family memories being made on this Park Blanket revamp! I’m so glad I tried out this pattern as a quilt, and I’d encourage you quilters out there… even if you do not consider yourself a bag maker, there’s something for you in the new book! We start with advanced beginner projects and move onto more advanced bags and organizers.

On the Go Bags (Dec. 2015, Stash Books)

On the Go Bags: 15 Handmade Purses, Totes, and Organizers is now available for pre-order at Amazon and Janelle and I are so proud of this book and excited to finally share it with the world!

I’d like to thank Riley Blake Designs and Simple Simon & Company for inviting us to be a part of this fun Four Corners Fabric blog tour. Be sure to follow along to check out all of the inspiring projects!


Win a Baby Lock Rachel Sewing Machine ($799 value!)

Janelle MacKay of Emmaline Bags and and I are so excited about the release of our new book, arriving just before Christmas, that we wanted to celebrate with a HUGE giveaway!

"On the Go Bags" + Baby Lock Rachel Giveaway!

Enter to win a Baby Lock Rachel sewing machine ($799 value), a signed copy of “On the Go Bags” by Lindsay Conner and Janelle MacKay, or one of the other SURPRISE prizes! We have some really fun secret giveaways we can’t wait to share with you…

1 Winner: The Baby Lock Rachel (retail value $799) is a computerized sewing machine that will help you take your sewing to the next level. You’ll love the features like built-in 50 stitches including many decorative options to jazz up your projects, a needle threader (squeal!) and one-step buttonhole. There’s also an easy top-load bobbin with a clear panel over top, so you can see how much thread is left. Hallelujah!

What I simply love about Baby Lock is that whatever your sewing experience or interests, there’s an option for you. From a basic, high-quality sewing machine that will guide you through sewing basic bags to high-tech computerized embroidery machines and longarms, it’s all there, so your Baby Lock can grow with you!

On the Go Bags (Dec. 2015, Stash Books)

5 Winners: The book is almost here, and we’re excited to provide signed copies to 5 winners as soon as it releases! This project is nearly two years in the making, and is near and dear to our hearts. We’ve included a variety of 15 bag and organizer patterns from your favorite designers, all designed to make life easier when you’re “on the go.”

With loads of professional bag-making techniques, this book will guide you through making beginner to intermediate and more advanced bags. There’s something for everybody here, and most of all, we want you to feel empowered by the creative process, customizing each bag to suit your style.

Pre-order “On the Go Bags” now at and Amazon!

5 Winners: We can’t wait to surprise you with super-awesome goodies from our sponsors! We can’t tell you what to expect, but it’s going to be fun!

Official Rules:

Contest begins Wednesday, October 21st and ends Saturday, October 31st, 2015 at 11:59pm EST. All winners will be selected using a random number generator. A valid e-mail address is required so we can contact winners. By filling out the Google form below, you will automatically be entered to win all giveaways, plus you will agree to receive exciting updates from our sponsors: Baby Lock, Stash Books, Emmaline Bags, and Lindsay Sews/Craft Buds.

Bags Winners

Good luck! We will contact all winners and publish results after the contest ends on October 31, 2015!

Nix Bath Toy Clutter with DIY Shower Pockets

I was invited to create a Crafted Experience to make my bathroom a more clean, inviting space! This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #CraftedExperience #CollectiveBias

Sew DIY Shower Curtain Pockets - Craft Buds

Are you tired of tub toys taking over your bathroom? My son loves to play with all of the trains and all of his bath books at the end of the day. But trying to clean up a sudsy tub full of toys after each bath was not very fun.

Bathroom Curtain

I like to keep my bathroom kind of tranquil and clutter-free! We keep extra rolls of toilet paper in my favorite basket so company doesn’t have to go searching. Other than that, we like to keep the counter surfaces clean. Ideally, I wanted to keep all of the kiddie toys inside that pretty shower curtain.

Bath Toys in Mixing Bowl

Our previous toy storage system was a kitchen mixing bowl. Not only did it not hold all of the toys, but my son would inevitably dump it from the ledge of the tub onto the floor, dripping leftover toy water all over the rug. Gross!

I needed to come up with an easy way to drain the bath toys and a larger place to store them. I sometimes have a hard time getting suction cups to stay put on our tub and tile, so the typical bath toy holders were out.

If you’d like to try my toy storage solution, I think you’ll enjoy the possibilities! I know I am going to love using these DIY shower pockets for a long, long time. It’s an inexpensive project, and you can customize the pocket size to fit your needs.

Shower Curtain Pockets Supplies


  • Mesh laundry bag (I picked mine up on clearance for $0.99.)
  • Heavy duty shower curtain (mine was $8)
  • Glue stick (optional)
  • Wrights X-wide double fold bias tape – 3 yards, 1/2″ wide ($2.49)
    • Note: One pack will make 2 pockets, and you’ll have a bit leftover. Pick up another pack or make your own. You’ll need about 42″ of 1/2″-wide bias tape for each pocket.

Shower Curtain Pockets Tutorial

How to Sew the Shower Curtain Pockets:

  1. Cut a rectangle 11″ wide x 16″ tall from the mesh laundry bag. Sandwich just one 11″ edge of the mesh between the double-fold bias tape and stitch close to the edge to secure. Check out this tutorial to learn how to make your own bias tape.
  2. If you’d like, you can unfold the bias tape, then press your raw edges of the bias tape under for a smoother finish. If not, just skip this step! This project is meant to be quick and functional… I’m sure you won’t mind any raw edges once it’s sewn up. (Note: The edges from step 1 won’t need this treatment anyway, since they’ll be covered up.)
  3. Fold the short finished edge up by 6″ to form the shape of the pocket.
  4. Sew bias tape on the left and right sides of the pocket, making sure the pocket placement does not shift. Pins or a glue stick works great here!
  5. Sew bias tape along the top edge of the pocket. The finished pocket measures 11″ wide x 10″ tall.

Shower Curtain Pockets Tutorial

6. Place the pockets on the shower curtain liner in the position you desire. To determine placement, I held up the shower curtain to my tub, and noted the natural folds of the curtain. Use a dab of glue stick or small pencil mark to note where the top corners of each pocket will be sewn.

Shower Curtain Pockets Tutorial

7. Take the curtain to your sewing machine, and use a wide zig-zag stitch to sew the top border only to the shower curtain. The rest of the pocket will hang loosely from the shower curtain liner.

DIY Shower Curtain Pockets - Craft Buds

The next time you change your shower curtain liner, simply use a seam ripper and remove the zig zag stitches. Your pockets are ready to place on the next liner!

Quilted Northern

I had so much fun sewing this project, thanks to the challenge from Quilted Northern Ultra Soft & Strong! I love that it’s sewer and septic safe, and I can always pick it up for a good price at my local Wal-Mart.

Keep an eye out for more crafted bathroom experiences inspired by Quilted Northern! I’d love to know… What’s your favorite organizational tip to get rid of toy clutter?

FREE Single-Size Cadet Cap Pattern!

hat options5

Today I’m sharing my free cadet-style hat pattern! This tutorial first appeared on the Britex blog last fall. Just download the pattern from Craftsy here (you’ll need a free Craftsy account) and we’ll get started. I’ve used two fabrics provided by Britex in my hat, a beautiful midweight herringbone olive & espresso wool for the exterior, and a silky smooth chocolate brown rayon/cupro for the lining.

02 fabrics

Finished Size:

The base of the hat measures 20 7/8″ and fits a head circumference (measured from the middle of the forehead to the widest part of the back of the skull) of 20 1/4″, the average size of a 5 year old.

Fabric Requirements:

– Lining fabric: 12″ wide x 16″ tall
– Exterior fabric: 24″ wide x 11″ tall (plus optional interfacing, see note below)
– Brim interfacing (72F Peltex 2 sided fusible ultra firm interfacing by Pellon): 6.5″ x 4″

For the exterior use a medium or heavy weight fabric. If your fabric is a medium weight like the wool I’ve used for this hat, fuse it with interfacing to give it more structure. I’ve fused the back of my midweight wool with Pellon 906 Fusible Sheerweight. Canvas or twill (the navy/gray and brown hats in the title image are twill) are fine with no interfacing. For the interior, the cupro made for a great finish for the inside of the hat. It’s silky smooth, pressed beautifully, it’s anti-static (great for a hat lining), and breathes well. You can find out more about cupro here. It was tricky to work with at this small scale with lots of curves so it did require slow stitching and lots and lots of pins to keep it in place. For the lining you can also use the same fabric as the exterior (minus the optional interfacing), or quilting cotton or any other light weight fabric.

Additional Notes:

– Cut all pieces with the grain of the fabric running vertically.
– All seam allowances will be 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.
– For more sizes, follow me through any of the options in the upper right corner of my blog homepage to find out when the multi-sized pattern is released.

After you’ve downloaded and cut out the pattern pieces, line up the letters for pieces A, B, and C and tape the pieces together. Cut the fabric and interfacing as noted on the pattern pieces. In the photo below, you can see all the pieces together.

04 pattern prep

Brim assembly:

To make the brim, place the two pieces right side together and sew along the outside curve. Clip every 1/2″ around the curve, making sure not to cut your thread. Turn right side out and insert the brim interfacing between the layers with the seam allowance all pushed the the bottom side of the brim. Press both sides of the brim with steam to activate the adhesive in the interfacing. Topstitch the front of the brim 1/4″ from the edge and again 1/2″ from the edge.

03 brim assembly

Hat exterior assembly:

With right sides together, sew together the two edges of the upper hat band. Then fold the lower hat band in half and sew the back edge together. (left photo below) Flip the upper band right side out, and with the narrower upper edge facing down insert it inside of the lower hat band so right sides are together (middle photo). Line up the seam on the the wider part of the upper band (marked “back” in the pattern) with the seam on the lower band. Pin all around then sew together. Fold open and press all seams.

05 hat band assembly

Next, pin the top of the hat to the upper hat band. It’s helpful to crease the hat top in half across both the length and width, and use the crease lines to match up the front/back/sides. Pin those 4 areas first, and then fill in with additional pins. The oval will want to stretch where it’s cut on the bias, so be extra careful in those areas. After sewing all the way around, remove the pins and flip right side out. The hat will look a little frumpy still, but we’ll be adding some top stitching soon that will make all the seams nice and crisp.

06 hat top assembly

Hat interior assembly:

For a fabric that frays easily, fold the back of the hat band lining under twice toward the wrong side by 1/4″ and stitch down (what I did with the cupro below). Otherwise, just fold the back under by 1/2″. The raw edges will be covered later. Next, with right sides together, sew the front edges of the lining together. Then, starting with the front of the hat and working toward the back, pin the band lining to the oval top lining. The back seam will overlap by approximately 1/4″. Sew together, then remove the pins and place the lining inside the hat exterior with wrong sides together. Optional: If you’re concerned about stretching, staystich the outside edge of the oval top before assembling the lining.

07 lining assembly

Final assembly:

Line up the top seams of the interior and lining pieces and pin all around, starting at the front and working toward the back. It’s easiest to place the pins just inside the top seam then out through the bottom just below the seam allowance. As you pin, press all the seam allowances toward the bottom of the hat. Sew three lines of topstitching, one just below the top seam, one above the middle seam and one below the middle seam. For each line of stitching, start where the white arrows below indicate, just past the open vent in the lining. When you come back around to the back, overlap the lining pieces and finish the seam. (The reason for the vent back rather than a fitted lining is that in testing, we found that if the lining stretched even an 1/8″ when sewn to the top oval, it wouldn’t line up correctly to the exterior. This design eliminates that issue.)

08 topstitching

Next, fold the back and sides of the outside of the hat toward the center by 3/4″. Then fold the lining toward the center so the edge is just below the exterior by 1/8″ so all raw edges are now hidden. At the back vent in the lining, overlap the two open edges then fold them over toward the inside together. At the front of the hat, insert the brim. Mark the center of the brim with a pin and line it up with the front seam on the upper hat band. The brim should be inserted 1/4″ all the way around. Curve it gently as you pin to each side and it will stick out like a normal hat brim. As you pin down the brim, fold the exterior and lining cap pieces toward the center as you just did with the sides and back. The brim will push up on the bottom hat band so that piece will be folded under 7/8″ rather than 3/4″ like the rest of the hat. Make sure the lining extends past the bottom hat band so you catch it as you sew around.

09 pinning final

Sew all the way around the hat with a 1/4″ seam and decrease to a 1/8″ seam across the brim. Below you’ll see what the interior looks like when flipped out (left), and the finished bottom seam (right).To curve the brim, use an iron and steam it over a curved object or steam it and use your hands to curve it while still warm.

10 final stitching

And that’s it, you’ve made a hat! Find a cute model and you’re all set.

final compilation

You can also play around with color blocking or adding a decorative band (see title image for examples). Thanks for checking out my hat pattern! If you liked this tutorial, be sure to check out my other free tutorials at Craft Buds!


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