Football OREO Cookie Balls

This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #OREOCookieBalls #CollectiveBias


When a friend has a party I always like to bring a special homemade treat. If I can come up with something that fits in with the theme of the party, even better! I thought these football shaped OREO cookie balls would be perfect to snack on while watching the game.

2015-10-29 16.44.22

I stopped by my local Walmart to pick up ingredients. In the photo above you can see they have tons of flavors of OREOs in the cookie aisle. You can use any flavor OREOs in this recipe as long as it’s not OREO Double Stuf. I love peanut butter and chocolate so I went with the peanut butter flavor.


OREO cookie balls just require a few ingredients and are pretty easy to make. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Ingredients:
    • 1 pkg (8 oz.) brick cream cheese, softened
    • 36 OREO Cookies, finely crushed (about 3 cups)
    • 4 pkg. (4 oz. each) semi-sweet baking chocolate, melted
  • Make it!
    • MIX cream cheese and cookie crumbs until blended.
    • SHAPE into 48 (1-inch) balls. Freeze 10 min. Dip balls in melted chocolate; place in single layer in shallow waxed paper-lined pan.
    • CUSTOMIZE it with your own ingredient additions or decorative skills.
    • REFRIGERATE 1 hour or until firm.
  • Optional ingredient: White chocolate for the football laces decoration.

Oreo Process

I put the OREOs in my food processor to chop them up into fine crumbs, then mixed in the cream cheese. After mixing I made the football shapes and froze them for 10 minutes. I melted my chocolate in a tall narrow cup in the microwave, then used a cake tester to skewer each football and dunk it into the chocolate. I used the tip of a knife to gently pull the football off of the cake tester after dunking. After the chocolate hardened I used a frosting bag filled with melted white chocolate and a round tip to pipe on the design.


These were a big hit at the party I took them to! Guests were wondering if they came from the fancy local chocolate shop. There are tons of different flavor combinations or shapes that you can make to customize these for any holiday or party. For more holiday OREO Cookie balls recipes, check out this link and let us know if you have any favorite OREO cookie and chocolate combinations!


FREE Single-Size Cadet Cap Pattern!

hat options5

Today I’m sharing my free cadet-style hat pattern! This tutorial first appeared on the Britex blog last fall. Just download the pattern from Craftsy here (you’ll need a free Craftsy account) and we’ll get started. I’ve used two fabrics provided by Britex in my hat, a beautiful midweight herringbone olive & espresso wool for the exterior, and a silky smooth chocolate brown rayon/cupro for the lining.

02 fabrics

Finished Size:

The base of the hat measures 20 7/8″ and fits a head circumference (measured from the middle of the forehead to the widest part of the back of the skull) of 20 1/4″, the average size of a 5 year old.

Fabric Requirements:

– Lining fabric: 12″ wide x 16″ tall
– Exterior fabric: 24″ wide x 11″ tall (plus optional interfacing, see note below)
– Brim interfacing (72F Peltex 2 sided fusible ultra firm interfacing by Pellon): 6.5″ x 4″

For the exterior use a medium or heavy weight fabric. If your fabric is a medium weight like the wool I’ve used for this hat, fuse it with interfacing to give it more structure. I’ve fused the back of my midweight wool with Pellon 906 Fusible Sheerweight. Canvas or twill (the navy/gray and brown hats in the title image are twill) are fine with no interfacing. For the interior, the cupro made for a great finish for the inside of the hat. It’s silky smooth, pressed beautifully, it’s anti-static (great for a hat lining), and breathes well. You can find out more about cupro here. It was tricky to work with at this small scale with lots of curves so it did require slow stitching and lots and lots of pins to keep it in place. For the lining you can also use the same fabric as the exterior (minus the optional interfacing), or quilting cotton or any other light weight fabric.

Additional Notes:

– Cut all pieces with the grain of the fabric running vertically.
– All seam allowances will be 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.
– For more sizes, follow me through any of the options in the upper right corner of my blog homepage to find out when the multi-sized pattern is released.

After you’ve downloaded and cut out the pattern pieces, line up the letters for pieces A, B, and C and tape the pieces together. Cut the fabric and interfacing as noted on the pattern pieces. In the photo below, you can see all the pieces together.

04 pattern prep

Brim assembly:

To make the brim, place the two pieces right side together and sew along the outside curve. Clip every 1/2″ around the curve, making sure not to cut your thread. Turn right side out and insert the brim interfacing between the layers with the seam allowance all pushed the the bottom side of the brim. Press both sides of the brim with steam to activate the adhesive in the interfacing. Topstitch the front of the brim 1/4″ from the edge and again 1/2″ from the edge.

03 brim assembly

Hat exterior assembly:

With right sides together, sew together the two edges of the upper hat band. Then fold the lower hat band in half and sew the back edge together. (left photo below) Flip the upper band right side out, and with the narrower upper edge facing down insert it inside of the lower hat band so right sides are together (middle photo). Line up the seam on the the wider part of the upper band (marked “back” in the pattern) with the seam on the lower band. Pin all around then sew together. Fold open and press all seams.

05 hat band assembly

Next, pin the top of the hat to the upper hat band. It’s helpful to crease the hat top in half across both the length and width, and use the crease lines to match up the front/back/sides. Pin those 4 areas first, and then fill in with additional pins. The oval will want to stretch where it’s cut on the bias, so be extra careful in those areas. After sewing all the way around, remove the pins and flip right side out. The hat will look a little frumpy still, but we’ll be adding some top stitching soon that will make all the seams nice and crisp.

06 hat top assembly

Hat interior assembly:

For a fabric that frays easily, fold the back of the hat band lining under twice toward the wrong side by 1/4″ and stitch down (what I did with the cupro below). Otherwise, just fold the back under by 1/2″. The raw edges will be covered later. Next, with right sides together, sew the front edges of the lining together. Then, starting with the front of the hat and working toward the back, pin the band lining to the oval top lining. The back seam will overlap by approximately 1/4″. Sew together, then remove the pins and place the lining inside the hat exterior with wrong sides together. Optional: If you’re concerned about stretching, staystich the outside edge of the oval top before assembling the lining.

07 lining assembly

Final assembly:

Line up the top seams of the interior and lining pieces and pin all around, starting at the front and working toward the back. It’s easiest to place the pins just inside the top seam then out through the bottom just below the seam allowance. As you pin, press all the seam allowances toward the bottom of the hat. Sew three lines of topstitching, one just below the top seam, one above the middle seam and one below the middle seam. For each line of stitching, start where the white arrows below indicate, just past the open vent in the lining. When you come back around to the back, overlap the lining pieces and finish the seam. (The reason for the vent back rather than a fitted lining is that in testing, we found that if the lining stretched even an 1/8″ when sewn to the top oval, it wouldn’t line up correctly to the exterior. This design eliminates that issue.)

08 topstitching

Next, fold the back and sides of the outside of the hat toward the center by 3/4″. Then fold the lining toward the center so the edge is just below the exterior by 1/8″ so all raw edges are now hidden. At the back vent in the lining, overlap the two open edges then fold them over toward the inside together. At the front of the hat, insert the brim. Mark the center of the brim with a pin and line it up with the front seam on the upper hat band. The brim should be inserted 1/4″ all the way around. Curve it gently as you pin to each side and it will stick out like a normal hat brim. As you pin down the brim, fold the exterior and lining cap pieces toward the center as you just did with the sides and back. The brim will push up on the bottom hat band so that piece will be folded under 7/8″ rather than 3/4″ like the rest of the hat. Make sure the lining extends past the bottom hat band so you catch it as you sew around.

09 pinning final

Sew all the way around the hat with a 1/4″ seam and decrease to a 1/8″ seam across the brim. Below you’ll see what the interior looks like when flipped out (left), and the finished bottom seam (right).To curve the brim, use an iron and steam it over a curved object or steam it and use your hands to curve it while still warm.

10 final stitching

And that’s it, you’ve made a hat! Find a cute model and you’re all set.

final compilation

You can also play around with color blocking or adding a decorative band (see title image for examples). Thanks for checking out my hat pattern! If you liked this tutorial, be sure to check out my other free tutorials at Craft Buds!


Fabric Book & Baby Dress Plus Fabric Giveaway!


Birch Fabric Homestead

Welcome to the Craft Buds stop on the Birch Fabrics Homestead by Emily Isabella blog hop! This new line of organic knit and cotton fabric features a gorgeous color palette and vintage-feel illustrations. I love the peachy pink and aqua with pops of mustard, gray and navy together. The cotton fabric I used has a lovely silky smooth feel to it, perfect for the baby I borrowed for this photo shoot :).


The fabric book is made with the Homestead Patch number panel for the pages, Homestead Main as the outside cover, and Clouds Mint for the inside cover. The pages have 2 layers of muslin sandwiched inside to give them a little more bulk and keep the images from showing through to the other side. It’s just the right size for a baby to hold and chew!


Here you can see the full book page spreads(click the image for a larger view).

Homestead Book

I also made a dress with Clouds Mint using Simplicity 1207, a vintage pattern Simplicity recently re-released. It’s a simple A-line dress with contrast top and tiny puffed sleeves.


The scallops in the top of the dress match the clouds in the fabric perfectly and I love how the dress turned out with a vintage modern look.


If you want more Homestead Fabric inspiration check out the links below for the full blog hop!


Birch Fabrics is hosting an amazing giveaway, 1 yard of each print from Homestead! This organic line comes in both knit and quilt-weight cotton poplin and there are 12 prints total. Just use the tool below for your entries. Good luck!

Win 1 yard of each print from Homestead by Emily Isabella!

Grown Up School Supplies with Expressionery + $250 Visa Gift Card Giveaway!

You know when your kids go back to school and you’re just a little bit jealous of their shiny new school supplies? Sometimes it’s nice for the adults to get some new supplies too! Our friends at Expressionery recently added a huge variety of great items for yourself or to give as unique gifts. For back to school time, they sent over a notebook, notepad, weekly agenda pages and adorable paper and binder clips in a cute little bag. The fun part is that it’s all personalized with my name so it feels extra special!

expressionery package

I appreciate that the items are packed securely with extra attention to detail like the gold and white crinkle paper used as packaging. It’s a fun surprise to open the box and see everything so pretty and neatly organized!


They’ve got tons of cute designs to choose from on their website for the products you see here (and more)! These would be great to use at home or in the office to make being organized more fun.


You can even choose your product and type in the personalization and immediately see what the final product would look like! It’s a lot of fun to play around with the different fonts and layouts exactly to your specifications.


You can check it out now and use the coupon code SUMMERSALE for 30% off the entire site right now, plus free shipping on orders over $50!



Giveaway! $250 Visa Gift Card

Through September 12, enter Expressionery’s contest for a chance to win a $250 Visa Gift Card!


Expressionery: Grown Up School Supplies

Etsy Giveaway from Most Precious Gift: 5 Winners!

Today we’d like to welcome Ashton Tennial, owner of the Etsy shop Most Precious Gift and newest Craft Buds sponsor! Most Precious Gift carries a variety of adorable headbands, hair bows and more!

most-precious-gift-square border

Ashton was inspired to open her Etsy shop by her three spunky little girls (5, 4, and 2). Ashton says, “I have been blessed to be a stay at home mom for the past two years. I have always been a crafty/artsy person. One day I decided to try and make my own hair bows for my daughters and everything snowballed from there. I really enjoy what I do and take a lot of pride in my work.”


Ashton is offering a giveaway to FIVE of our readers to pick out their choice of a headband or hairbow. Just leave one comment below telling us what your favorite item from the shop is. Contest ends at 11:59 PM EST on Monday, August 17. We’ll use to choose the winners (EDIT: Winners have been chosen, thanks!). And if you want to order something right away, use coupon code FREESHIP25 for free US shipping on order of $25 or more for the month of August.

How to Add Pockets to Any Skirt! Tutorial and Free Pattern


Adding Pockets to ANY Skirt! Tutorial + Free Pattern

Welcome to Craft Buds any new readers following along with the Skirting the Issue! If you haven’t heard, it’s a month long event over at Simple Simon & Co. and we’re happy to be a part of it!

Today we’ll show you how to add pockets to an existing pencil, slim, or A-line skirt pattern with a free pocket pattern. In my example below, I’m using Simplicity 9825 for the skirt (it’s now out of print, but still sometimes available on Ebay or Etsy). Once you’ve cut out all of your skirt pieces following your pattern directions, add the pockets to the front piece of the skirt, then finish the skirt using the directions that came with your pattern.

To make the pocket, first print out my pattern here. I’ve included 4 pocket sizes in the pattern. In this example I used the second largest size that is a solid black line. Then follow the instructions below (click on the image to see it larger).


1. Cut out 2 mirror image sets of the pocket, 1 from the outer fabric and 1 from a lining fabric.

2. Line up the pieces with right sides facing out and apply bias tape to the inner and outer curves to enclose the raw edges. Sew along the open edge of the bias tape. Optionally, also sew along the outer edge of the top curve so you’ll have 2 lines of stitching that will match the bottom curve after step 3.

3. Place the pocket pieces on the front piece of the skirt, lining the pocket up with the top and side edges before you assemble the skirt. Sew them down along the outside of the outer curve. Depending on the angle of your skirt, you may have to trim off a bit of pocket top or side edge. The side and top of the pocket will later be encased in the waistband and side of the skirt as you can see in the photo below.

Adding Pockets to ANY Skirt! Tutorial + Free Pattern


Additional Information:

Fabrics were purchased from including Kaufman 21 wale corduroy in citrus and Anna Maria Horner LouLouThi Summer Totem Tart in quilting cotton. The bias tape (ordered from is Wrights extra wide double fold bias tape in Mediterranean Blue. The shirt is a modified Sewaholic Renfrew and I’m mostly sure that the shirt fabric is JoAnn Fabrics interlock knit in royal. Original inspiration for the skirt came from It looks like the skirt is no longer on that site, but you can still see a pin of it here. Thanks to my friend and fabulous photographer Jayne (check her out if you’re in the Indianapolis area) for letting me take photos of her modeling the outfit!


Adding Pockets to ANY Skirt! Tutorial + Free Pattern


Make a Skirt for Charity, Win a Prize!

This post is part of the Skirting the Issue blog hop, hosted by Simple Simon and Co. We are so thrilled to be a part of this annual event, which encourages readers to sew and donate simple skirts to girls in foster care, to help them feel beautiful. Oh yeah, there are prizes, too!

Skirting the Issue 2015

Summer Baby Sewing: 3 Piece Outfit

Summer Baby Sewing: Peekaboo Bonnet, Applique Onesie, City Gym Shorts

A couple years ago I bought a fat quarter of this great pink floral border print fabric (now hard to find, Erin McMorris’ Urban Garden line for Free Spirit) and have been keeping it for a special project ever since! With some careful cutting, I had just enough fabric for a coordinated 3 piece baby outfit. I love how it turned out, and how the border print keeps everything coordinated but it all looks a little different too!

Peekaboo Bonnet and City Gym Shorts Front-Back

First I made the Made by Rae reversible peekaboo bonnet. It’s a lovely pattern that comes together quickly, has no raw fabric edges and includes some really cute piping details. Above you can see both sides of the bonnet along with a tiny pair of Kid’s City Gym Shorts (it’s a great free pattern from The Purl Bee available here).

The shorts pattern starts at size 2 so I redrafted the pattern for 9-12 month size. I used the 2T inseam length (to make sure they covered a diaper) and took off some width and height from the top and sides. They were small enough that I just unfolded the extra wide bias tape from the legs of the shorts and used it to create the casing for the waistband.

City Gym Baby Shorts

To finish off the outfit I made a little heart applique (tutorial here). After ironing the heart onto the onesie I used a blanket stitch on my sewing machine around the edges.

Onesie with Heart Applique

And I know you want to see the whole outfit together on an adorable baby with some fabulous baby legs, so here it is!

City Gym Baby Shorts with Baby




Dining Room Chair Covers: Sew or Staple


IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

Recently my husband I bought a set of Ikea Borge chairs for our dining room. The chairs looked great but I knew the white canvas seats the come with wouldn’t last long in a house with two little boys and frequent dinner guests! I did some searching online and came to the Harts Fabric website. After looking at their amazing selection of fabrics and laminated cottons, I contacted Harts to see if they’d be interested in partnering with me for this post. Luckily they were and I chose this great Riley Blake BPA Free Aqua Hexies. That fabric is now out of stock but they still have the yellow in stock along with a huge selection of other laminated cottons! Here’s an image of just a small selection of the ones they have.


I tried covering the chairs two ways so I’ll lead you through the process for either stapling the fabric directly to the chair seat, or sewing a slipcover with elastic. These instructions include measurements specifically for the Ikea Borge chairs, but they could be modified for whatever chair you have.

Stapled Seat Cover

Let’s begin with the easy one, stapling! I used a staple gun with 1/4″ staples. For each seat, cut a rectangle 22″ wide (the fabric total width is 44″ so you can get 2 widthwise) by 20.5″ long (this measurement is along the selvage edge). These measurements give you 2″ to wrap around the back of the chair and 2 1/2″ for the other 3 sides.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

To begin, lay the top of the seat against the wrong side of the fabric. Position the 22″ side of the fabric just beyond the screw holes at the back of the seat and place one staple in the center. Then put 2 more staples to either side of the center one for a total of 5 staples about 1 1/2″ apart. Hammer down any staples that are sticking up at all. Any of the photos in this post can be clicked on for a larger view.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

Stretch the fabric to remove any wrinkles and staple it to the front of the chair with 5 staples starting in the center and moving out to the sides 2″ apart. Then stretch the sides and do a row of staples on each side, starting in the center and moving out to the sides for a total of 5 staples 1 1/2″ apart.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

Next staple down the front corners. On the back of the chair, first fold one piece of fabric tight toward the corner and staple down. Fold the other flap toward the corner and staple down. Next take the triangular flap you’ve just created and pull it tightly toward the middle of the chair and staple it down. From the top it will look slightly rounded and have 1 small fold on each side of the corner.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

Last, staple down the back corners. This is a little tricky as there is a notch cut out for the back of the chair. From the back of the chair, fold the fabric from the back edge of the seat toward the middle of the seat and staple in place. Then fold the fabric from the side of the seat toward the middle until it’s nice and tight. Staple into place. Then take the triangular flap you’ve just created, pull it tight and move any wrinkles into the center of the notch in the seat. Staple into place. When finished your fabric will look nice and smooth with no wrinkles! If you’d like, trim off any excess fabric corners that are sticking out.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds



Sewn Slipcover Seat Cover

This method took a bit more work. If you are using non-laminated fabric it’s nice that it can be removed to wash, but for these particular chairs you would have to remove the 4 screws holding the seat down before you could remove it. To use this method, first print out my free pattern (this link will open a pdf in a new window you can save or print). Pattern was designed using Ikea Borge chairs purchased May 2015, just in case they change the style in the future! Match up the stars in the pattern and tape the five pattern pages together. To use this pattern your fabric will need a small amount of give so you can stretch it tightly over the corners of the chair. It’s a little tighter than the slipcover that comes with the chair so you’ll have a nice smooth top with the laminated cotton. If you use the pattern, try making just one cover first to make sure it’ll work with your fabric!

To stabilize the fabric, either use a serger along all the edges or a sewing machine to do a zigzag stitch close to the edge. Then fold the fabric on each side (but not the corners) under by 5/8″ and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance. This will form the casing for elastic. In the photo below you can see I used a roller foot to help the laminated cotton glide more smoothly through my sewing machine. If you don’t have one, you can try putting matte finish Scotch tape on the bottom of a regular sewing foot to keep it from sticking to the fabric.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

On the wider side of the fabric (the front of the seat), bring right sides of the corners together and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance from the fold to just before the casing and backstitch to secure.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

On the two remaining corners (the back corners), bring the notched out section of the corner right sides together and sew from 1/2″ away from the edge on the fold, down to the edge of the fabric.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

Thread 3/8″ elastic through the casing on all 4 sides. Use a nice firm elastic with  around 50% stretch (a 4″ piece will stretch to 6″ before it starts to resist). Start in the back corner and leave at least 5″ sticking out at both the start and finish. Fit the cover around your seat and pull it snug in all directions. Smooth out any wrinkles, pull the elastic tight and then tie it in a knot. If you don’t have firm elastic, string will also work if you tie it in a tight bow so you can un-string it later to get the cover off.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds


Comparing Both Methods

Both methods worked well and the final seats look nearly identical. Personally, I preferred the staple method as it was faster, easier to get a nice smooth seat with no wrinkles, and uses less fabric. And, with the laminated cotton I’ll never have to take it off to wash, just wipe clean, so laundering isn’t an issue! I also think the stapled seats may also be a bit more stable as I’m a little concerned that all of the thread holes in the sewn version may make it more prone to rip with heavy usage. But, again, these differences are minor enough that in the final chair no one can see a difference! So far we’ve used both versions for the last week with a birthday party and house guests and they look great! The fabric hasn’t stretched to show any wrinkles and the tops all look nice and shiny.

IKEA Chairs with Laminated Cotton Covers: Sew or Staple? | Craft Buds

Thanks again to Harts Fabric for supplying the laminated cotton for this project! Make sure to check out their selection of not only laminated cotton, but also quilting cottons, apparel fabrics, patterns and more. If you’re in the Santa Cruz, CA area you can go check out their store in person!





Teacher Appreciation Pencil Pouches

Teacher Appreciation Gift: Pencil Pouches | Craft Buds #teacherappreciation

At the end of each school year I like to give my son’s preschool teachers a small gift. I’ve given them each a tote bag, special scissors, and this year I did pencil pouches with notepads and pens. For the pattern I used Lindsay’s quilted boxy pouch pattern (free with a free account on Craftsy). As written, the pattern makes a large boxy pouch. To make the smaller, flat pencil pouch I made a few changes and used a 9″ zipper, and cut the fabrics to 9″ x 9.5″ (the zipper side). Then I followed the instructions as written and stopped at step 7, which is right before you make the boxy corners. That method worked great and the final pouches are 4 1/4″ x 8 3/4″, the perfect size for pencils and pens!

Teacher Appreciation Gift: Pencil Pouches | Craft Buds #teacherappreciation


I like to include a “Handmade by…” tag on my items so the recipient of the gift knows that it’s a handmade item! I made the tags using a stamp from Expressionery and the customized notepads (name blurred for privacy) are also from there. The aqua flower fabric is Amy Butler Daisy Chain (now out of print), the pink dots fabric is Marble Delight Pink by Josephine Kimberling for Blend Fabrics (Natural Wonder collection) and the lining is Painted Woodgrain Grey by the same designer, also for Blend Fabrics (Riding Hood collection).

Online Sewing Class

Fabric Tissue Box Cover

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box | Craft Buds

Here’s a great project for that special fabric you’ve been hoarding so you can see it every day! You won’t need much fabric and you can even use a fat quarter. In all you’ll need:

  • Exterior fabric, quilt batting or fusible fleece, and interior fabric, approx. 13″ x 17″ each depending on the size of your tissue box
  • 1/2″ double fold bias tape (approx. 40″ inches)

To start, get an empty box of your preferred tissue type.Carefully poke a hole in the bottom with your scissors and cut out the bottom. Then cut each of the 4 corners so it lays flat. Remove plastic from the top where the tissues come out. Now you’ve got your tissue box template!

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Place the cardboard template on top of your exterior fabric, and fabric for the interior (I used white muslin, this fabric won’t show). You’ll want to cut the 2 fabrics flush with the outer edges of the tissue box (the part that will form the bottom), and leave a 1/4″ seam allowance at each of the 4 corners. For the inside rectangle where the tissues come out, don’t worry about rounded edges and cut a rectangle leaving 1/4″ distance from the edges of the tissue box.

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Cut a layer of batting the same way you cut the fabric, except at the 4 corners you’ll want to cut 1/4″ inside the template to reduce bulk in the corner seams. Now you can either cut across the corners of just the batting layer to create 5 separate pieces and allow for sharper corners, or you can leave it together and sew along the fold through all the layers.

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Next, you have two options with your quilt batting or fusible fleece. Option 1: Sandwich the batting between the 2 layers of fabric and sew along the dotted line in the diagram below so the final box cover has nice crisp corners. Option 2: Cut along the white line in the diagram below only on the quilt batting or fleece layer so you have 5 separate pieces. If using fusible fleece, fuse the pieces between your 2 layers of fabric. Cutting these lines will help the fabric fold better.

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Snip the 4 corners of the tissue box opening 1/4″ at a 45 degree angle. Fold the edges toward the backing and stitch down or use a glue stick or fusible web to hold it in place.

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Fold 1/2″ bias tape in a rectangle around the opening with the 2 raw edges ending at a corner, or use 4 separate pieces of bias tape with 1 on each side of the rectangle (what I did below). With either method, place 1/4″ of the biast tape under the tissue box opening and leave 1/4″ sticking out from the top. Sew around the top opening 1/8″ away from the edge of your main box piece, the navy herringbone in my example (click any of the photos for a larger view).

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Bring the corners right sides together and sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Finger press the seams open.

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Sew bias tape around the bottom. Make sure the corners stay open as you sew the bias tape around.

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds

Finished! Now that you’ve got the hang of it, you can make one for every tissue box!

Sew a tissue box cover for any size box! @ Craft Buds


If you’d like the printable version of this tutorial, it can be downloaded for free from Craftsy with a free Craftsy account here (affiliate link).



Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...