Tag Archive for free pattern

9 Free Women’s PDF Shirt Patterns!

Free Patterns Header

This post contains two of my favorite things, sewing and freebies! Here’s a roundup of women’s sleeveless or short-sleeved shirt patterns that bloggers and companies have graciously released for free. These aren’t just tutorials, there are printable pdf pattern pieces for each one along with instructions! Click the link below each photo to go to the pattern’s website learn more about each one. Some are multi-sized and others are not so see each description.

If you know of any more free shirt patterns, feel free to leave a link in the comments. Or, let us know if you’ve tried any of these patterns and how it turned out!

Note: We wanted to let you know about these patterns, but they are not affiliated with Craft Buds. If you have any questions or problems, please e-mail the website the pattern originates from.

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Deer and Doe: Plaintain T-Shirt

Includes European sizes 34-46 with options for short, long and 3/4 sleeves and elbow patches.

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Colette: Sorbetto Top

Sizes 0-18.

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Tanit-Isis Sews: Ariadne Tunic

Sizes XS-XL.

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Skirt as Top: Scoop Top

Size small/medium.

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It’s Always Autumn: The Easy Tee

Includes size L pattern with instructions to grade up or down and 5 variations. Scroll to the bottom of the post for different looks.

Portia Top

Dixie DIY: The Portia Top

Includes 5 sizes ranging from bust size 32″-40″.

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Made with Hugs and Kisses: Button Down Peplum

Includes pattern for bust, 40 inches and waist, 32 inches.

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Cake Patterns: The Tee

Includes multi-sized pattern for 30″-59″ bust. Click the link above to go to the website, and on the right side of the website you’ll see an option to purchase the $10 paper pattern, and below that a link for a free pdf pattern download.

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Grainline: Hemlock Tee Pattern and Instructions

One size, finished measurements are 44.5″ bust and 46.5″ hip. Just leave off the sleeves for a summer top!

Square in Square Quilt Block (Paper Piecing Tutorial)

I recently made a quilt block for my do. Good Stitches charity bee, and I had so much fun making this block. So, I decided to take photos and put together a square in square quilt block tutorial!

Tutorial for a Square in Square quilt block (paper pieced)

This is a paper-pieced (foundation pieced) quilt block pattern that works great with all kinds of fabrics. You can use these blocks to make a pretty paper-pieced pillow, a whole quilt or just make one block to practice your paper piecing.

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This is a pillow made using the same square in square block pattern, made by Tamiko of Patchwork Notes! She has put together a free paper-piecing pattern for this block, which you can download here.

Foundation Piecing Tips

Here are a few things to remember when sewing foundation-pieced blocks:

  1. Print out your foundation pattern once for each block you’d like to make. For the 8 blocks pictured, I printed off 8 sheets! I used regular computer paper.
  2. Shorten your stitch length to 1 or 1.3. This will allow you to tear off the paper easily when you’re done sewing.
  3. Place your fabric on the non-printed side of the paper. The pretty side of the fabric should face out toward you.
  4. When sewing a foundation pieced quilt block, always sew directly through the paper on the printed side of the paper. The fabric will be underneath the paper as you stitch, so use a glue stick and/or pins to hold it in place.
  5. For another little primer on how foundation piecing works, you can visit my New York Beauty block tutorial! Once you get used to placing fabric on one side of the paper and sewing the other, you should have no problem with this technique.

Square in Square Block Tutorial

Pattern makes a 6″ finished (6.5″ unfinished) block. Download the free template and print one copy for each block you’d like to make.

For each block, cut the following:
– 1 square 3.5″ x 3.5″ for center
– 2 squares 3.5″ x 3.5″ for center ring. Cut squares in half once diagonally to make 4 triangles total.
– 2 squares 4.5″ x 4.5″ for outer ring. Cut squares in half once diagonally to make 4 triangles total.

Here are two of my printed templates, side by side:

1. To make 1 block, take the 3.5″ x 3.5″ fabric for your center square. Place it on the wrong side of your paper, so the edges overlap the edges of the center box on your printout. You can hold up your paper to the window to see the lines. Use a glue stick to dab just a dot of glue to hold the fabric in place.

2. Next, take two of your triangles (cut diagonally from the smaller 3.5″ squares), and place them right side down on the fabric square as pictured. Align the long straight edges of your triangles with the top and bottom of the square. Center and pin in place. (The photo to the right shows what it will look like after stitching.)

3. Flip the paper and take it to your sewing machine so the printout is facing up at you. Peek under your paper to make sure the fabric has not shifted, and stitch the two lines where you’ve pinned the wide end of your triangles. Backstitch at end edge.

4. Open up the triangles you’ve just sewn and press. Repeat by pinning the long edge of two triangles to the opposite sides, taking the paper to your sewing machine, and stitching along the left and right sides of your center square.

5. Here’s what the triangles will look like stitched. Again, fold the triangles open and press with your iron.

6. Next, it’s time to trim! Take the block to your cutting mat. With the printed side of the paper facing up, fold along one of the diamond edges (diagonal lines) as pictured.

7. Fold the paper corner completely down, so you see the edges of fabric poking out. Lay your ruler on top of the paper, and measure out 1/4″ from the edge of the paper. Trim the fabric that pokes out past a 1/4″ seam.

8. Unfold the paper corner, and repeat with the other 3 corners to trim each of the edges.

9. Here is what the block looks like trimmed. So pretty!

10. Since I was making 8 blocks, I went ahead and assembled the centers and first row of triangles up to this point. You can see that I left the papers full-size, but you may wish to trim yours at this point or before getting started! Just be sure to leave on the outer printed border, which is the seam allowance.


11. To make the outer border, take two of the triangles cut diagonally from your 4.5″ squares. Pin the long edges of each triangle along the top and bottom of your patchwork square (pictured, left). Stitch in place along the printed lines. Press the triangles open.

12. Take your final two triangles, and pin the long edges along the left and right sides of your patchwork square (pictured, right).


13. Stitch in place. For this entire step, you will be stitching around the lines of the diamond (the second shape from the center), as pictured.

14. Press the entire block. Get excited, because you are almost done!


15. Flip the block over, so the paper side is facing you. Trim along the edges of the paper, again leaving the 1/4″ seam allowance all the way around the edge.

16. Flip over the paper and admire your pretty square in square quilt block!

17. When you are joining your blocks, it’s helpful to leave the paper on. I know… it seems funny. But it makes it very easy to get an accurate seam allowance and line up all the points.

18. All of your previous seams will naturally be pressed to the sides. For the seams between each block, I like to press the seams open.

do. Good Stitches {imagine} April for Toni

I can’t wait to see the quilt that Toni makes from these charity blocks! If you make any blocks based on this or any of our tutorials, we’d love to see them! Please add them to the Craft Buds Flickr group or share a link in the comments.

Have you tried foundation piecing or another type of paper piecing before? What’s your favorite method (or tools and tricks) of paper piecing?

Jungle Lattice: Free Baby Quilt Pattern

Lattice - Free Baby Quilt Pattern

I’ve been on a kick with baby quilts lately. I’ve put together a free baby quilt pattern that’s totally doable for beginners and intermediate quilters, too!

This baby quilt tutorial uses charm squares (5″ x 5″ precut squares, which you can also cut from other fabric in your stash) and crisp, white sashing, for an effect that looks like a lattice fence, with pops of bright color popping through! I chose “jungle colors” with a pop of brightness to match a baby boy’s nursery, but you can customize this pattern and colors to fit the size and look of your preferred quilt. Bright, monochromatic (all one color) prints look great with this quilt pattern, and the white lattice really brightens up whatever colors you choose.

I hope you enjoy this free baby quilt pattern! Let’s get started.

Online Quilting Class

Lattice - Free Baby Quilt Pattern

Finished Quilt Size: Approx. 40″ x 48″

Materials:

– 40 fabric squares 5″ x 5″ (5 each of 8 assorted prints)
– 1 3/4 yards of white fabric for sashing, corner and side triangles and border
– 3/8  yard of binding fabric
– 1 1/2 yards backing fabric
– 44″ x 52″ batting

Cutting Instructions:

– Cut 10 strips 1 1/2″ x WOF  (width of fabric / selvage to selvage) for sashing (the lattice).
– Cut 4 white squares 9″, and cut each in half TWICE diagonally to make 16 quarter-square triangles.
– Cut 1 white square 9 1/2″, and cut in half ONCE diagonally to make 2 half-square triangles.
– Cut 4 strips 3 1/2″ x WOF for borders.
– Cut 5 strips 2 1/2″ x WOF for binding.

All seams are 1/4″ and pressed open, unless otherwise noted.

 

1) Chain stitch your charm squares to the white sashing strips, sewing them onto the white strip one after another. Don’t worry about leaving much space between them, because you will later cut them apart. Leave 8 squares without a white strip. You should be able to sew 8 squares each onto 4 strips, for a total of 32 squares with a border, and 8 squares without a border strip.

 

2) Cut apart the charm squares, trimming the white side borders equal with the sides of the square.

3) Arrange your charm squares on point (like a diamond) in a color arrangement that’s pleasing to you, with the white stripes resting between adjacent blocks. If you used a design wall to arrange the blocks, you can refer to a photo for block orientation. Arrange the squares without the stripes toward the ends of the rows, as pictured.

Print

 

4) Stitch together the rows as pictured above (rows are diagonal starting at the top left corner):

Row 1: 2 squares / 3 strips
Row 2:
4 squares / 5 strips
Row 3: 6 squares / 7 strips
Row 4:
8 squares / 9 strips
Row 5: 8 squares / 9 strips
Row 6:
6 squares / 7 strips
Row 7: 4 squares / 5 strips
Row 8:
2 squares / 3 strips

5) Arrange the white half-square triangles at the ends of each row, to make the quilt rectangular in shape. The long side of each triangle should face out toward the border of the quilt top. Stitch the triangles to the rows.

6) Place the larger triangles in opposite corners of the quilt, with the long side of the triangles facing the pairs of two squares. Stitch the triangles to the two wide corners.

 

7) Trim the sides of the corner triangles even with a ruler and rotary cutter. (Note: With a 9 1/2” square cut along the diagonal, you shouldn’t have to trim like I did here. You’ll have extra fabric in the corners! I used a 7 1/2” square.)

8 ) Lay out your remaining sashing strips between each row, and stitch to between neighboring rows to join them. Sew the longer strips first. Trim the excess sashing strips and join them to other strips to get the length you need.

9) Continue adding sashing strips to the rows, pressing your seams as you go. I pressed the seams open, which gives this quilt a crisp, clean look with sharp angles.

 

10) Add a 3 1/2″ border to the left and right sides of your quilt. Trim off the excess. Add a 3 1/2″ border to the top and bottom of your quilt. Trim. Press the seams toward the border.

11) Baste and quilt your baby quilt. Trim the borders even around the edges of the quilt, measuring 3″ from the seam. Sew on binding.

Lattice Baby Quilt

I chose wide, wavy lines and a slight woodgrain pattern for quilting this baby quilt. I would have added an extra layer of quilting between each of the wavy lines to make it tighter and more textured, but I ran out of white thread and was on a deadline. I am excited that this quilt gets to stay in the family! It’s fun to sew for people you know, isn’t it?

Lattice - Free Baby Quilt Pattern

I hope you enjoyed this free baby quilt pattern and photo tutorial. If you make this or any projects from Craft Buds, we’d love to see them in the Craft Buds Flickr group!

 

Quick Triangles Baby Quilt

Quick Triangles Baby Quilt Tutorial - Craft Buds

Quick Triangles Baby Quilt - Free Pattern

If you are looking for a crib-size quilt top that you can piece together in one evening, this half-square triangles quilt pattern is perfect for you. It features 6 fat quarters of assorted fabric prints and large, 8″ x 8″ half-square triangles (HSTs), that you can make 8 at a time.

Finished Quilt Size: 38″ x 53″

Online Quilting Class

Fabric Requirements:

– 6 fat quarters (18″ x 22″) of coordinating fabric prints
– 5/8 yard white border fabric
– 2 2/3 yards backing fabric (allows for 4″ of overage on each side when quilting)
– 3/8 yard binding fabric
– Crib size (45″ x 60″) quilt batting… I like a high-quality crib batting like Warm & Natural (affiliate link)
To get started, break your fat quarters into three sets that match well together. Look at the colors as well as the scale or size of the design.

Spread out and stack two of your fat quarters, and trim to an 18″ x 18″ square.

Now, stack your 18″ x 18″ squares with right sides facing. Mark a diagonal line from corner to corner on one wrong side with a ruler and pen. Pin together the fabric squares at the corners to hold the fabric in place while you sew.

Take your fabric to the sewing machine. With the marked side facing up, stitch a line 1/4″ from the edge of one marked line, to both the left and right of that line. Repeat with the other marked line.
After you’ve stitched the four long lines, notice how the stitch lines go right through the center of the block. With your ruler and rotary cutter, cut the block into four equal quadrants using this center and the block’s straight edges as your guide. For more tricks on making HSTs at a time, visit my guest post at Sew Mama Sew.

Use your ruler and rotary cutter to cut along the line you marked earlier, through the center of your stitched lines. Repeat with the other blocks, and you’ll have 8 half square triangles.

Press the seams open with an iron. This is my Panasonic Cordless Iron (affiliate link) which I love!

Using a square ruler and your rotary cutter, trim each block to 8″ square. Line up the 45-degree line of your ruler with your half square triangle before you cut.

Here are the eight 8″ half square triangle blocks from just two fat quarters. Repeat with the other fat quarters, and you should have 24 total blocks.

Arrange your blocks in a 4×6 grid. I kept my blocks in a set order, with the colors pointing to the upper-left and the grays pointing to the lower-right.

With right sides facing, pin together the blocks in each row and stitch. Press the seams open.
Next, join together the rows with right sides facing, and pin at each seam. Stitch together the rows and press the seams open.

To make the border, cut your border fabric 5″ x the width of fabric, for 4 strips total. Starting in one corner, attach a border strip to the top, then trim the excess. Repeat with the bottom. Stitch the ends of these strips to the other to border strips you’ve cut for the sides, to lengthen them. Press the seams open, then stitch the left and right border strips to the quilt and trim.

Quick Triangles Baby Quilt - Free Pattern

Press the seams open. Baste, quilt and bind as desired. After quilting and before binding, I trimmed the borders to 4 1/4″ to keep them even all the way around. This pattern is very beginner-friendly, and I’d recommend it for showing off strong prints. I hope you’ve enjoyed my tutorial, which I originally posted at Sew Lux Fabric!

Quick Triangles Baby Quilt

Link Up Your Work! Pleated Boxes Pillow Sew Along

Have you been following our Pleated Boxes Pillow Sew Along? I’ve seen several inspiring pillows pop up already, and today is the first day to link up your pillows for prizes! Let’s see what you can win:

Prizes

Update: Five random winners will each take home a prize for linking up their finished pillow to this blog post by next Friday, March 23.

1 winner: A stack of Flea Market Fancy fat quarters from my pre-order!

1 winner: Make it Sew Modern book by Vanessa Christenson
1 winner: $20 store credit to Lindsay Sews on Etsy

Make it Sew Modern book cover Lindsay Sews on Etsy

1 winner: Glass Half Full PDF pattern
+ pattern of your choice from Create Hope Designs
1 winner: Aurifil Thread Sample Pack (5 spools total)

Glass Half Full - Quilt Pattern Aurifil Thread

The downloadable pattern will tell you all you need to know to make this pillow, but we’ve also been covering each step on the blog!

Even if you’ve added to the Flickr group, you must add your pillow here to the InLinkz tool so you can be eligible for prizes. Please link directly to your blog post about the pillow or your Flickr photo URL.


Enjoy the free pattern and have fun finishing up those pillows through March 23rd! We’ll see you back on the 24th to announce the winners!


Grab a button!

Craft Buds Pleated Boxes Pillow Sew Along

Pleated Boxes Pillow: Envelope Pillow Back + Make Pillow Form

First things first. The winner of the Mend It Better book is comment #53 Sofia, who said, “A seam ripper. Who knows how many times I’ve used and it has saved my project. Great idea for a book I’m excited to see it.”

Congrats Sofia!

This will be our final instructional post of the Pleated Boxes Pillow Sew Along.

If you haven’t had time to start yours yet, don’t worry. We’ll be back on Friday with a chance to link up your pillow for prizes, and you have until March 23 to enter. That’s 12 more sewing days!

Today I’ll guide you through the steps to make a simple envelope pillow back, and a custom-size pillow form for your pillow. This method can be applied to any of your throw pillow projects, so let’s get started!

Make Envelope Pillow Back

1. From your remaining background fabric, cut two rectangles 14” x 14” for the sides of your envelope pillow back. You’ll see here that my squares are stacked.

On the edge of one square, press a half-inch fold with your iron. Then fold over again and press, sandwiching the rough edge inside the fold.

Repeat with one edge of other square.

2. With the folded edge facing up so you can follow along with your sewing machine foot, stitch on top of the fold, ¼” from the flap edge. Repeat with other square. If you stitch it too far away from this edge, your flap will splay open and won’t have the finished edge you are looking for.

This is what your finished seam will look like. I’m showing you the back side of the fabric, which will be tucked inside your pillow.

3. Place your pillow front on a flat surface, right side up.

On top, place one of your squares, right side down with raw edge aligned to raw edge of pillow front and folded edge across the third column of boxes. Since you want the smoothest finished edge to show, place that side so it is face down and touching your pillow front.

Place matching square right side down, raw edges aligned to the other side of the pillow front. Reminder: Everything currently visible will be tucked to the inside of your pillow cover after turning. All “right sides” should face to the inside of your stack.

4. Pin stack together and stitch ¼” around entire perimeter.

Here it is after stitching the perimeter.

5. Trim and finish edges with a wide zigzag foot, or clip with pinking shears to prevent fraying over time.

6. Turn pillow cover right side out and press.

Make Pillow Form

1. Lay your pressed pillow cover flat on top of folded, inexpensive muslin fabric. You could use muslin from the bolt, or something you have around, like an old sheet, pillow case, t-shirt, etc. Just make sure the print of your muslin fabric will not show through your pillow case.

Cut two rectangles of fabric 2” larger than pillow top on every side (two pieces of 18” x 22”).

2. Align muslin rectangles with right sides together. Stitch ¼” around perimeter, leaving a 4” gap for turning. Turn right side out and fill with 8 oz. to 10 oz. of polyester fiber filling, depending on desired thickness of pillow form. Try to keep fiber filling in one large piece, rather than separating into handfuls, as you push it uniformly into the pillow form. Leave end open until you have tested for fullness inside pillow cover.

3. Insert pillow form into pillow cover. Adjust filling, using your fingers to push into corners. Roll pillow form with hands to smooth out filling. Once you are satisfied with the shape, remove pillow form and stitch opening closed before inserting.

You may choose to machine stitch the pillow form on one end like I did here, or hand stitch so your thread is barely visible. Since this will be hidden inside the beautiful case, this is a step I don’t worry about looking too perfect.

And it’s that easy! Here are some in-progress beauties and the first finished pillow from our Flickr group! Gorgeous interpretations here.

Pleated Boxes Cushion

pleatedpillow sew along2 Close up on my crooked sewing

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Photos: 1. Mary 2. Janelle 3. Bayeaston 4. QuiltingLodge

Craft Buds Pleated Boxes Pillow Sew Along

If you haven’t already, you may download your free PDF pattern here.

Schedule

Free Pattern Features: Softies + Winner

These cute little softies (plush animals) are fun for kids and adults alike! There are lots of patterns available for purchase on Etsy but here’s a few you can try out for free.

First up is this adorable little hedgehog from LollyChops. I’ve always thought a hedgehog would be a cute pet but this version would be a lot easier to care for.

Hedgehog from LollyChops

Hedgehog from LollyChops

 

Molly Monkey is from mmmcrafts and you can customize her colors and clothes for any kid!

Molly Monkey from mmmcrafts

Molly Monkey from mmmcrafts

 

Chez Beeper Bebe created this Mooshy Belly Bunny from recycled T-shirts. Just like the name says, it looks squishy and delightful.

Mooshy Belly Bunny from Chez Beeper Bebe

Mooshy Belly Bunny from Chez Beeper Bebe

 

And lastly, we already featured Pippa the Fox and Rascal the Raccoon from Ruffles and Stuff awhile back in our Fresh Picks. They’re just so cute here they are again in case you missed them the first time around!

Pippa and Rascal from Ruffles and Stuff

Pippa and Rascal from Ruffles and Stuff

Winner!

The winner of Margot Potter’s book, New Dimensions in Bead and Wire Jewelry: Unexpected Combinations, Unique Designs, chosen by random.org is Shaiha! If you’re Shaiha, I’ve sent you an e-mail with more information. Don’t forget to enter our current giveaway for the Slice Fabrique!

Petite Purse + Wallet and Flower Mini Tutorial

I made this purse, wallet and optional flower for my contribution for a silent auction. The purse is the “Buttercup Bag” sewing pattern that you can get (free!) at the Made by Rae site. If you haven’t found Rae’s site yet, it’s amazing and you should go take a look around! The bag has a magnetic closure and a pocket inside and little pleats around the outside. I’d recommend either using a heavier weight fabric or some fusible fleece between the layers to give it a little weight.

The wallet and flower were both things I made up as I went along. For the flower, I used fusible web and ironed together some of the blue and brown fabrics. Then I cut out five 1″ squares. Then (like origami) I folded the sides in so they met in the middle. I did that to all five squares and ironed them flat. Then I cut out a 1″ circle, stacked everything up and hand stitched it all together with a button in the center. I put a safety pin on the back so the user could put it on the strap, the purse, or choose not to use it at all.

For the wallet, I measured out two strips of fabric 5 1/2″ wide by 9 1/2″ long. Then on one side, I cut the last 2″ of the length into a triangle. Next I put right sides together and stitched all around the wallet, leaving an opening at the bottom and using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Then snip the corners and turn it right side out and iron it flat.

Stich along the open edge to close it up. Then fold over the bottom to make a pocket and stitch down the sides.

To finish it off I stitched a decorative button to the flap and put a snap underneath which you can see in the second photo from the top of the post.

 


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